Snug up the clamps and let it sit for a while. Think on it some more. This pattern can be made from thin material, like plexi-glass, thin plywood, or even cardboard. The neck side profile template I used back in the late 1960s and through out the 70s was 19.5 degrees. The banjo neck used in this example was already shaped and the heel wasn’t cut at all. The goal here is to create a flat plane from these two pieces. I usually aim for three. Learn how your comment data is processed. With a thicker board, a warp may be worked out of it with the jointer. If the plan is to make a very deep rim, then cut the pieces wider to allow for it. When you are done all the scribble should be gone. Jun 15, 2019 - Explore DBT's board "Banjo Inlay Pattern", followed by 150 people on Pinterest. True at least three sides, the side that will be the back of the workpiece need not be trued because it will be carved away. Banjo Intermediate. See more ideas about banjo, inlay, string instruments. This pattern is intended to be used with a traditional dowel stick design. Add between 5 and 7 inches to accommodate for the length of the peghead. Banjo neck blank preparation begins with the choice of suitable wood. Make sure that there is glue squeezing out all around, and that the fingerboard face is as level as possible, check the ends to make sure they are lined up pretty good. Lay the pattern on the workpieces again. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. A live demonstration on jointer safety from a wood working professional is highly recommended. Holographic Universe Slide Show.pps format: This is important to the long-term life of the neck so take your time and look it over really good. Look across the board to see if it has any “cup”. If need be, rip each piece to 3.25″ wide or a little less with the table saw, the extra .25″ is to allow for more “trueing” with the jointer. Think it over a little. Put the two pieces together in the way they will be glued together and have a look, how is it? The thinner the board you start with, the more important it is that it be straight. Hold it. Are there any warped areas, cracks, or knots that fall into the shape of the neck pattern? It is okay for the back side of the neck to be completely uneven for now. Get the surfaces of the workpieces that the fingerboard will be glued to as even as possible. Use a protractor to find the angle. Look down the length of the board and try to identify any warps or irregularities. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. In fact, this banjo neck was made by me in my shop and the heel was hand cut by me specifically for this article. How to Make a Banjo Neck Step-By-Step Workpieces are trued on the jointer Gluing (if two piece neck) The side profile is cut out, then the neck blank is left to cure a while. More durable materials will provide a longer useful life. Lay the neck pattern on the lumber and look at it. The ears are added The peghead overlay and fingerboard are added. Before ripping the board check to make sure that your workpiece has a straight edge on it. This can be a slippery operation so having a friend on hand can be helpful. Begin by putting a clamp on one end, tightening a little bit, aligning and tightening some more. Gibson peghead angle above about 20.4 degrees. Work your way down the workpiece adjusting as necessary. Click on the pictures for larger view. Look at the lumber again. True the sides. I sometimes prefer to make the neck and rim from the same wood. Look at the trueness of the width as well as the trueness of the thickness. The thickness I aim for down by the heel is usually around 1 to 1 and 1/4 inches. Unlock the Banjo Neck with Patterns Intro. Look across the board to see if it has any “cup”. If your peg head is to be wider than that dimension, add the length of a second peg head to the overall length of the neck blank. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. For the neck, choose stock a couple of inches longer than the entire banjo and a tad wider than the section of the neck that extends into the rim. If you have a great piece of wood that is 26″ go for it. GIBSON PEGHEAD NECK ANGLE. Mark a straight line that is the intended length of the fingerboard. Starting at the line that represents the depth of the heel, make another mark at 90 degrees that goes back towards the peghead. I usually start at the peghead with a thickness of about 3/4 of an inch. Start with a board that is at least 1.25″ thick  and 3.25″ wide in the rough. If it is already surfaced it might be possible to use a board as thin as 1.15″ IF it is VERY straight, but any thinner seems unrealistic for a two piece neck. Tap it. 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